Відео

You can do 2 diodes at a time. So yes.

DC brake. Resistor for braking.

@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, would this product "DC 12V-36V 500W Brushless Motor PWM Control Controller Balanced Driver Board" on ebay work?

@@navpap1029 It needs to be rated for up to 60V and at least 1000W. I don't know the exact wattage of the brushless motor as I have not owned one myself. It will also need to be able to run sensor-less or hall less.

@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, I could not find the rating for the motor I own. Also I tried to look up 1000W bldc controller, could not find either. So I went ahead and ordered that, so atleast I can learn. Fingers crossed.

Thanks! Tool Scientist shared they have Samsung 30T 21700 cells in them. I have actually never seen the 5.5Ah in the US.

It has the thermal pad between the heatsink and Mosfets instead of thermal paste. It was not in great shape and could be replaced for sure or add thermal paste, but no not for testing. Testing is fine it doesn't build up tremendous heat instantly as a CPU will starting up. I have used the same Mosfets in other repairs as well with the 56V tools. I have other videos of success doing the same basic repair. I believe an EGO saw and blower if I remember correctly. Just sharing one here that also did not go as well so I have it a retrofit just to play around with it.

@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for sharing, while I know how to solder and use a multimeter I would have had no idea how to check these or that they were called mosfets. If you can link the recommended 80V or 100V mosfet it would be greatly appreciated so I can try this repair on my broken leaf blower.

I believe I shared the link to these in the Blower repair video description. ua-cam.com/video/FxO7CpV4b9g/v-deo.htmlsi=w3c_QwtSprqfuQNY

I will surely pay shipping to show repair on the channel. Thanks for your contributions to the channel. You can reach me at thriftytoolshed@gmail.com

I have not found anywhere that sells them. I even reached out to the aftermarket group to see if I could buy a lot of them and they are not willing to sell individually either. The more manufacturers of these aftermarket packs we see maybe the more likely to start seeing some of those for sale possibly.

I believe it is, but I simply don't know the dates they switched over. It was some time right before the pandemic that EGO switched over to the Gen3 and I heard stories of many months later still having the older Gen2 packs in kits that even showed the new Gen3 pack on the box of the tool they were buying. Obviously customers did not like that. I would not have liked it either with it advertised on the box having the fuel gauge and only getting one with the one light. So for that reason I never knew the exact switch over date or if one was even known about. It may be because of the pandemic that this roll out did not seem to be straight forward. Supply chains were disrupted all over the world for sure. Of course it's easy to tell Gen3 from others by simply looking at the fuel gauge and if it's only one light or 5 segment fuel gauge. The Gen1 and Gen 2 as far as I have seen you could tell by Ah rating on some of these. The Gen1 seemed to come out 2Ah and 4Ah best I can recall. The older 4Ah had a lot of black over mold on them as well. They later had the 2.5Ah and the 5Ah which I always thought was the start of the Gen2. Of course lately they have came out with the 2Ah and 4Ah again in the Gen3 packs. I am not sure about the 7.5Ah as I have never owned one myself. What I am calling V2 of the Gen2 packs seems to be around the 2021 time frame...

@@ThriftyToolShed interesting. Yeah, supply chain disruptions probably seriously screwed with things. I feel like you’re getting enough of a following/community where you’d be able to narrow the production dates on the battery cases AND any changes seen in the BMS boards, you could probably get to some accurate tracking of the pack evolution. Don’t forget about the 6Ah (14S/3P 2000mAh cells) that debuted in overseas markets but is showing up in North America now; the budget version of the 7.5Ah.

Putting it on the charger was the reset. It has been mentioned in several videos in that series of videos, sorry if not as clear in this particular video. Typically the charger will reset that and some packs will go through a diagnostic type test if you hold the fuel gauge button down for 5 secs or so that may help in some cases...

Absolutely!

Wow, you're amazing stevbibiack!

This is the same pin out as the DA2320 shared in the video correct? You still have to use adapter board or bodge wires right? Thanks for sharing!

@@ThriftyToolShed same pinout

Yes, there has been some discussion around these fuses for a while mostly in UA-cam comments and some emails, but now more and more shares on the FB group showed up and its time to share with the YT audience and try my best to get relief from one on one communications about certain subjects. These fuses for example I comment as much as possible, but I still can't keep up and each exchange is only helping one person at a time and not the larger group. I do not have a need for the larger 10Ah or 12Ah packs so I really can't do a dedicated video on it so I really appreciate all the photos and videos sharing that helps the larger audience and everyone of us together as well.

Also, I was in many comments early on about the fuses. I may have posted as Phillip Johnson, but sometimes I forget to try to like post as TTS as well. I don't often switch back and forth. I was still researching and sharing as we found out more about them and Tool Scientist has the video that made me stop and look closer and we had a few comments back and forth about these fuses on his Makita video.

No. I never meant to imply any of the sort. I was just wondering if they received a bad unit or pack. I simply wondered if they would retest based on mine in case of a bad unit they could have received. TTC did not wish to take mine and compare any further when I offered, but TTC is awesome enough to send me theirs so I could test with it. I thought that was super nice of them. I simply tested it and it seems the tool is not the issue it seems like a bad pack. The one they sent me will not power the tool much at all. I still have some questions of why both the 4Ah and the 2Ah seemed to give problems for them as they only sent me the one battery, but it was enough to prove my thought wrong about maybe the tool they had being an earlier model or version. The brushless sticker is not on the back, but everything else is the same it seems. I have not posted a video on it since it's not much to show other than a bad or faulty pack to some degree. I may still post one eventually to answer the open question I had in this video. I only have trust for TTC as they even showed the "Beast" pack that sent in to them out performing all the other packs even the one they built to try to compete it. So I feel like they show it as it is. I was hoping the Beast pack would dominate, but they showed it in full glory. They did not make excuses for other packs or manufacturers, just the fact that it was truly a beast.

Good to know thank you sir!!!!!

Thanks for your comment. As mentioned in this video and many others it has bad cells. The actual whole point of the video is to help show the true condition of the cells instead of assuming charging it up will get it back to normal. Many people seem to think to boost it up and good to go. Over 95% of the time in my experience it is bad cells and the problem is simply masked by charging up to get a fault or error to clear. Think about it... How did some of the cells drop low to start with if cells are not balanced? In some cases when all cells have equally dropped down then yes the boost them up method can help, but even then if lithium cells get below 2V they most likely have irreversible capacity loss. These 40T cells have an issue that I found with capacity loss over time as shared in the video and I wanted to share for those that actually care to learn more about lithium cells in series and how close you need to monitor the individual cells behavior.

@ThriftyToolShed yes.a battery can have 3 problems 1.cells discharged or broken 2.bms broken 3.bad contacts between strips or bms I watched all your video, i watch also to learn something I just said that I happened with a battery that flashed the same way and after several attempts I managed to charge it in the original charger Good luck ✌️

Thanks for watching and sharing!

As long as you have all the parts it should be as easy as putting the bolt back in the wheel? It has a carriage style bolt, flat washer, wheel slides on, flat washer, lock washer then the green knob if I remember correctly....

If none of the cells have any voltage across them they are usually done for. They have either gone to zero volts which most likely have permanent damage with much capacity loss or the CID has activated and opened up at the positive end of the cell. I have an older video talking a little bit about the CID on some 12V Hitachi packs I believe.

I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.

That is the one that comes with it. It is now known that it doesn't work as well with it and works much better with the 4Ah for sure. My 2Ah seemed to functon properly with mine, but some are reporting theirs did not work well at all with the 2Ah that comes with it.

Thanks man!

Thanks so much for your kind comment!

Using the remote is the only way that I know of. At least they are cheap. I get asked this alot, I have put a Amazon link in description for remotes.

Excellent example of unintentional consequences of covering electronics. I bet that was a mess. How easy was it to remove? I have seen a little bit of that and more issues with the design issues of trying to pack too many components in a small area. I am thinking of testing out the Raytech Magic Power Gel to use to replace the coating on these boards. Have you ever used it? I have been asked many times about what is best to use as replacement of the silicone coating on these boards and I have mentioned the electronics grade silicone possibly, but I believe it will be very difficult to work with afterwards if needed to go back in. The silicone type coating originally used on these boards is very unique in the way it removes easily to me. The power gel seems to be reusable, but it may be a sticky mess? I may have to do some testing on a couple different kinds and see how it works out? You would actually know much more about this testing though, have you ever thought about a conformal coating comparison video? Just a thought...

@@ThriftyToolShed Well the solution was to replace the motherboards with new ones and throw out the failed coated ones. Was a lucrative customer and they were told "dont do that again" so it was a cost od doing business thing. That really my only experience with conformal coating - so you probably;y know more about it them me. I would think this biggest issue besides it providing an insulating layer around already hot components is making sure doesn't corrode anything on the circuit board over the course of many years. The silicone coating they use must be unique as you said - the acidic smell from some home waterproof silicone caulking is probably corrosive to some extent. I had never heard of Magic Power Gel - looks like a neat product for the right situation. Comparison video - hmm - maybe sometime we do a joint one on that?

@@ElectromagneticVideos We can do that for sure!

Great! maybe sometime this fall!

@ElectromagneticVideos Sounds great!

That is exactly how I would do it. I may have to do that on my next one that possibly has the same issue. Thanks for your kind comment!

Quick question I have several ego batteries that I've charged to the voltage by an unorthodox means however once inserted into a tool I only get until motor startup then red flashing I went through all temp transistors to no success. Could I possibly run a 10k resistor from neg to D terminal and confuse the motor controller.

The D-terminal seems to communicate so there is no easy bypass that I have seen. Thanks for your kind comment!

Yes, think I'm going to have raise the white flag on this one. Geez, I don't get my ass kicked often

I think it is possible if it is enough of a need and no one else after seeing all of this can come up with a different option!

No not just like it just the ones as mentioned in the video that Andrey shared that we would have to use bodge wires or adapter board because the pin out is different.

I would check how balanced the cells are. It is a 14S pack so 14 groups of cells in series. They are all monitored back to the board and once one group pulls low it will give that error. Most likely some cells have lost capacity. You could get lucky getting the cells back balanced, but many times the capacity has just dropped too low and cell replacement is meeded. I will show going around the board and testing the individual cells groups in the next video once I get it edited. I also shared this years ago on some older EGO pack repair videos. I just go around the test points on the board once the silicone is removed. You can do it by separating the pack halves and checking at the cells also of course.

I just had that problem, and I took the battery apart as much as can be done easily and put it back together and magically it started working fine again. Seems to be some kind of connection issue or something...

Glad you did. Thanks for your kind comment!

Thanks. I wonder if more LEDs in the newer Gen3 boards are harder on the same style transformer current wise with 5 instead of 2. I also wonder if dropping the battery could cause this by breaking the very fine wires on the windings to the feet. I have noticed some broken for sure. The potting helps some but maybe not completely . The older boards also had this problem, but did not seem as common of a failure point on them to me.

Would wonder if EGO knows they have a problem. It will take some time to see if fix works but could be "Covid" era sloppy engineering . Enjoyed watching, you're telling me potentials with my EGO blower. Thanks!​@ThriftyToolShed